Colorful houses in downtown St. John's

St. John’s wears her perennial gray outfits well, learning to accessorize with sparkle. Buildings painted vivid – not pastel – colors, boats brightly bobbing in the harbor. Residents don cheerful tones and drive cars of red and blue, jostling between happy-yellow taxis.

A coffee-shop culture fuels a vibrant population. We’re in North America’s far east; just an Atlantic-scale hop away from Ireland. Yet St. John’s offers up a cosmopolitan city vibe. It feels like a combination of Portland, Oregon and Burlington, Vermont, dishing up a variety of surprises… delicious local cuisine, poetry slams, contemporary art galleries and an intrepid outdoors-y crowd.

The isolated setting and dramatic landscape enchant hikers and road-trippers who wander off well-marketed routes such as the “Irish Loop” or “Baccalieu Trail” discovering pretty fishing communities such as Heart’s Desire, Dildo and Come By Chance.

The fishing community of Brigus in Conception Bay

National Geographic Traveler magazine recently hailed Newfoundland’s Avalon Peninsula to be the number one coastal destination in the world in recognition of its authenticity and stewardship (Wales’ Pembrokeshire coast was rated #2). The blend of controlled tourism growth alongside remnants of a once-thriving fishing and canning industry now balances ecological and conservation efforts. But, in part, this is self-governed by the unique location, climate and infrastructure. Brands like Marriott and Choice have set out a cluster of hotels in downtown St. John’s, but the province is satisfyingly void of sprawling resorts or double-decker tour buses. Here is a region just waiting to be discovered, and one that is quite happy to wait for the tourist to be ready for that voyage of discovery!

Back in St. John’s, be sure to stop by The Rooms, the city’s latest cultural addition, bringing together an art collection, local history and community art space. Just across the road, chat it up with locals at The Big R where you’ll also find hearty portions of fresh fish and chips washed down with local Quidi Vidi beer.

Quidi Vidi harbor

To be at one with the brewing process, head out to Quidi Vidi village, a picture-postcard harbor-side neighborhood within St. John’s city limits. Ramshackle boathouses and historic buildings intersperse more modern homes along the waterfront. But it is the brew house building and restaurant which dominate to provide the hub of activity today where once fishing boats returning with the day’s catch would have taken center-stage.

Even with a spiraling sea mist and clouds which hang over the land, Newfoundland doesn’t fail to impress. The near-constant gray drizzle make those rare blue-sky moments all the more special.

And my visit was special from the moment of arrival at St. John’s International Airport, when the flight attendant announces that local time is an hour-and-a-half hour ahead… “welcome to St. John’s!”

Cape Spear

You can do this

Flights to St. John’s are expensive. I took advantage of one of West Jet’s 30% off sales proving that it pays to sign-up for airline newsletters!

Preferring not to drive, I booked a couple of day excursions with RJ Tours, with Dave taking care of the itinerary and patiently waiting while I hopped out at every opportunity for photos. I spent another two days exploring downtown St. John’s and heading out to Cape Spear.

I stayed at the Quality Hotel Harbourview which, while distinctly average, was a reasonable location for trekking around the city.

St. John's Harbour seen from the Quality Hotel Harbourview

“Railway termini are our gates to the glorious and the unknown. Through them we pass out into adventure and sunshine, to them, alas! we return.” E M Forster

I’ve traveled across North America by plane time and again. It’s rather tedious. Traveling to an airport on the outskirts of a city in an expensive taxi or dirt-slow shuttle; waiting in line for ticketing; waiting in line to check bags; waiting in line for security; waiting in line to board; waiting on the tarmac; delays; turbulence; flatulence.

We take off. Then land. I’m magically in a new corner within hours. Maybe I crossed mountains. Perhaps a river. I’m pretty sure we passed farms, cities and villages. Flying is a friends-with-benefits approach to travel. You get there just fine, but it’s not as meaningful as travel should be.

So, when my schedule permits, I love to travel by train. Amtrak and VIA Rail are both awesome. Interesting fellow-travelers, plenty of space to stretch out and, of course, those incredible views. A chance to see the “real” America between glimmering cities. This is “slow travel” at its very best.

Many train stations epitomise a bygone era of travel… heightening the excitement and anticipation of fellow travelers waiting in grand concourses.

I’ve almost crossed America by train. Sadly, though, I have to wait until 2020 before a route might exist to complete my journey: Denver to Albuquerque. A neat interactive map heralds America’s hopes and dreams for an impressive high-speed network. This is exciting. This could be the future.

I mapped my rail and bus travel:

Travels to date by rail and bus

A couple of photos from recent train journeys…

View from the window of Amtrak's "Adirondack" train (New York to Montreal)

Another…

View from the window of VIA Rail's "The Canadian" train

While the train journey from Churchill south to Winnipeg clocked in at more than 46 hours, it didn’t feel too much like an endurance test. Be sure, though, to snag a sleeper berth or cabin for a lie-flat sleep and at least a little personal space as the ride encompasses two overnights; it’s well worth the splurge.

Train at Churchill VIA Rail station

Swaying and rattling along the rails, averaging less than 20 miles an hour, allows time to contemplate Churchill’s geographic and socio-economic positions today. Passing wheat fields that stretch forever into the distance, albeit blanketed in snow, explains the continued export role Churchill plays. As Canada’s northernmost port town, Churchill is perfectly positioned to export a million tonnes of grain annually, arriving by rail from Manitoba and Saskatchewan, to Europe. Passing tiny villages and hamlets that cling to the railway line highlights the significance of Churchill as a medical center for the northern Manitoba region, and also to the Nanavut communities further north. The airport, too, is essential in the onward distribution of goods, services and medical outreach to these communities.

And, over the past few days, I saw for myself how important tourism is to Churchill’s modern-day economy. Each year thousands of tourists take the long train ride to see polar bears, Beluga Whales, the Northern Lights and vast tundra landscapes, for another tick on their bucket-list.

A Polar Bear near Churchill

Around 800 residents live year-round in Churchill enduring long harsh winters working in these industries but also maintaining a strong sense of community that is seldom found elsewhere. Ask Jenafor, who runs Bluesky Bed & Sled with her husband Gerald, and she’ll explain passionately how she made the move from Vancouver to Churchill and how she cherishes the rural setting, working with their sled dogs and welcoming visitors. Or ask any of the tour guides I met who delight in showing off their home town to intrepid tourists talking fervently about their day-to-day lives. It might seem like an extreme lifestyle to me, heralding from London and New York, but for locals, minus 31°C was hardly even worth a mention over their morning coffee.

The lodging options in Churchill are limited and modest. A handful of motel-quality inns line the town streets with their rooms often reserved only for large affluent tour companies bringing in large affluent tourists. Opt, instead, for a more homey bed and breakfast like I did – - staying two nights at Bluesky Bed & Sled. Here I found an incredibly warm welcome, fantastic help and advice planning my daily itineraries, and a bunch of friendly like-minded travelers. The Scottish-English couple, Viv and Andy, even got engaged on their first day in Churchill! Then there were Jenafor’s delicious breakfasts of fresh cranberry and granola yogurts, home-made blueberry pancakes and fresh-baked bread. On arrival at 9am on my first day, I was promptly made welcome and seated to an unexpected breakfast treat before heading out to explore the town. Both evenings, all nine guests would congregate in the living room glued to our laptop computers and cameras, making use of the wi-fi, comparing our polar bear photos in front of the roaring log stove!

That same Churchill welcome is extended to all visitors except, perhaps, Martha Stewart. She was quite the talk of the town following her recent visit. “Do you know who I am?” may very well have prompted: “I’ve no idea, Miss Stewart!” as she attempted to enter the polar bear jail, off limits for people as it’s where over-eager bears are kept when they venture into town until they can be released onto the ice.

Newly-formed ice stretching out across Hudson Bay

Some of my favorite experiences during the trip were simply observing Mother Nature in action: as Hudson Bay – the vast salt-water body – started to freeze, waves of salty slush splashed ashore. By the second day, the ice-line was stretching almost 100 feet out and intrepid bears started to test the surface once the morning blizzard subsided. On the third morning, despite temperatures of minus 31°C, the bright sunshine was causing a stirring sea-mist to rise up against the blue sky; and I couldn’t even see where the bay’s ice coat now met the water way out in the distance.

As I prepared to leave Churchill, locals chatting it up at Gypsy’s Bakery were guessing that just a few more days of consistently chilling weather would sure up the ice over the bay enough for the bears to leave town on their migration north for winter. Sadly I wouldn’t be there for the mass exodus!

After three days in Churchill, I have new friends, many new travel tips, hundreds of polar bear photos, and an authentic understanding of life in near-Arctic conditions.

Here is a travel experience that is unarguably unique. Perhaps the only opportunity to see polar bears up close in their natural habitat, and in a location where arctic tundra, boreal forest and maritime zones come together. To see the vast Hudson Bay freeze in just a matter of days once the temperature plummeted was an amazing sight. Being constantly alert for polar bears in town is not something I fear in New York but, as my neighbor on the train attested, they do roam the streets of Churchill.

A Polar Bear near Churchill

You can do this
Should you choose to plunge to arctic extremes, planning an independent vacation to Churchill is relatively easy once you get your head around the logistics. It is, however, discouraged by the tour companies who prefer that you pay five times the cost for the same experiences. But don’t be put off…

The toughest part is co-ordinating the booking of a Tundra Buggy day tour with accommodation as both are in very high demand in October and November. I was taking a slight risk by traveling in mid November (I arrived in Churchill by plane on November 16th) as an early freeze could have inspired the bears to make an earlier move north. My Tundra Buggy tour (on November 17th) was the penultimate of the season. My advice is to be very persuasive with the Tundra Buggy companies when you call them, insisting that you really do need the tour on certain dates, and perhaps tell them that you’re in town visiting friends and you therefore cannot book an entire vacation package with them.

While making accommodation and day tour arrangements, keep half an eye on the availability of flights or train schedules, especially as the VIA Rail service only runs twice a week. I chose to fly into Churchill as the train service is notoriously often late (sometimes as much as 10 to 20 hours late), which would write off an entire first day of potential exploration.

There are a couple of useful websites to help with planning a trip:

Polar Bear Alley is an excellent blog, updated during the polar bear season, giving a feel for what’s going on in Churchill: www.polarbearalley.com

Everything Churchill is quite the definitive source for local information, links and contacts: www.everythingchurchill.com

Book a Tundra Buggy tour – - with one of two companies who have places for independent travelers. Tundra Buggy Tours (parent company is Frontiers North Adventures): www.frontiersnorth.com or Great White Bear Tours: www.greatwhitebeartours.com.

Book a town tour which takes you on a five-hour tour of Churchill and surrounding area (we actually saw just as many polar bears on this tour as the Tundra Buggy tour) – - again, there are two companies offering these tours at around $125: North Star Tours (tel. 204-675-2356) and Nature First Tours (tel. 204-675-2147).

A street in Churchill

A polar bear near Churchill, Manitoba

This evening I board VIA Rail’s long-distance train back down to Winnipeg. 40 hours but it should be fun!

>> See my set of Churchill photos on Flickr

A Polar Bear near Churchill

Today I headed out on a Tundra Buggy tour. The traditional polar bear tourist season might be almost over up here in Churchill; there were just six of us in the Tundra Buggy with our driver-guide when usually tours brim to capacity season-long. I quickly forget any visions of grandeur aboard the buggy. Instead we were in for a bumpy ride in a freezing cold interior despite a burning fire at the back as windows constantly rattled open. However the views across the tundra made it worthwhile. Overcast skies, stirring snow and glistening ice create an eery landscape. Seven pairs of eyes scanned the surroundings looking for bears. And we found a few… 

A Polar Bear near Churchill

A Polar Bear near Churchill

A typical street in Churchill

Thankfully the temperatures were still unseasonably high, clocking in at around -5°C plus a little wind-chill, so ambling around town was pleasant enough. With a population of just under 1,000, the town is easy to explore in a few hours including visits to the Eskimo Museum and the well-presented local history museum located in the old rail station building. I must confess to being quite scared of bumping into a polar bear. Warnings are posted everywhere and there’s a polar bear watch throughout the town 24 hours a day. Walking back from the restaurant, several blocks, just a moment ago was particularly scary when a fox leapt across the street a few feet in front of me. I suddenly had a feeling that next up might be a polar bear roaming about, so I quickened my pace, especially as the wind chill had dropped the temperature to -19°C.

Looking out towards Hudson Bay

Tomorrow is an early start for my Tundra Buggy tour. That’s when I want to see the polar bears!

>> See my set of Churchill photos on Flickr

Churchill, Manitoba, has been on my bucket list since arriving in North America seven years ago. That 800 people live year-round more than 1,000 miles north of Winnipeg is incredible. That polar bears surround the town waiting for the vast Hudson Bay to freeze over in November should provide opportunity to see them up close in their natural habitat aboard a Tundra Buggy.

Unlike my vacations to date, there is no “on the cheap” option to see Churchill. While I wasn’t about to shell out several thousand dollars on a fully-escorted tour, I did want to include a trip out on the tundra.

Knowing that the long-distance ViaRail train – which rattles its way north from Winnipeg over 36 hours – is often extremely late arriving in Churchill; I’ve opted to fly one-way into Churchill Airport at the extortionate cost of CAD $560 to ensure that I wouldn’t miss a day up north. This will be one of two necessary splurges. The other is shelling out almost CAD $400 for a full-day Tundra Buggy tour.

I’ve arranged two nights bed and breakfast accommodation at Bluesky Bed & Sled in Churchill at CAD $114 a night. And I’ve booked the train back from Churchill to Winnipeg with a private cabin at $410 (thanks to ViaRail’s handy online discount coupons). With the nights drawing in at this time of year, I’ve no idea what to expect from the long journey except that the train is often up to 20 hours late; that it lurches and bumps its way along ill-repaired track; and that it is occasionally canceled altogether. The experience will be fabulous, exciting and a little adventurous for sure!

So that’s the advance logistics taken care of, along with a stock of thermal clothing and jacket which is apparently good to -40ºC. Given that the wind-chill should be biting, I’ll need those several layers for the relatively brief moments I’ll be outside exploring the small downtown area and hopefully gawping at bears from the Tundra Buggy deck! I guess I’ll find out when I arrive in Churchill on November 16^th whether I have enough warm layers. And what life is like in this small frontier town located just below the Auroral Oval. I’m really looking forward to this one…

[Originally posted on www.usa.visitwales.com on January 15, 2010] I’ve been in Cardiff for a few days this week, and head back to New York tomorrow. Meetings, meetings, meetings. With just an odd minute here and there to catch a breath and see a bit of Wales’ capital. With snow on the ground at the start of the week, then slushy snow, then rain, and now drier warmer conditions, we’ve certainly had varied weather.

The good news is that the sparkly new St. David’s shopping center affirms Cardiff as a year-round city destination. I loved wandering around the split level shopping areas, warm and dry. The new center links into the original St. David’s shopping center, making a huge shopping mall which also connects with the Queens Arcade.

And Cardiff is an easy walking city. Just outside the shopping malls and I was steps away from the edgy new Central Library building with six floors containing 900,000 books.

There’s great High Street –style shopping along Queen Street leading up to Cardiff Castle, which I never tire of seeing. But my favorite shopping experiences in Cardiff are still the Victorian and Edwardian shopping arcades. I was on a mission this lunchtime to find Welsh cheese, so I started by heading to the Castle Arcade…

In the Castle Arcade, Madame Fromage (www.madamefromage.co.uk) is an amazing Welsh deli’. Welsh cheeses, Welsh chocolates, Welsh beers and cider, Welsh Cakes, Bara Brith… Perfect for me – it was lunchtime after all – they also have a café so I enjoyed a delicious Caerphilly Cheese sandwich with salad and home made chutney. They also serve Welsh meal items in the café including Welsh Rarebit, leek and potato soup, Welsh lamb cawl and hand made pie. My lunch was great, but I have to confess being impressed by the huge cheese platter which a couple were devouring on the table next to me; I think they were on vacation in Wales, yay!

Another great place to get Welsh cheese in Cardiff is Central Market – yes, even more under cover shopping for me! The market is located in a Grade II-listed building and is brimming with food, greengrocers, china, second hand books, second hand records and CDs and take-away food options. There’s also a neat coffee area where it’s fun to sit and watch the world go by; but I was on a strict mission today. The cheese stall at the front of the market has a great selection of Welsh cheese.

Now to another shopping arcade: the Royal Arcade, to check out Wally’s Delicatessen (www.wallysdeli.co.uk). Wally’s doesn’t so much focus on Welsh products as food from around the world, so it’s truly a mouth-watering selection. I even saw Hershey’s Chocolate Syrup! But they do have a couple of Welsh cheeses to look out for, and a lot of different chutneys to go with all the cheese you’ve been buying!

Finally, the Welsh Food Hall at House of Fraser should be worth visiting. It was relaunched last year when Rural Affairs Minister for Wales, Elin Jones, opened it, so it’s gotta’ be good, right? They say they have more than 270 Welsh products including Penderyn Welsh Whisky. I didn’t count the number of Welsh products, but they seemed to have a range.

So the shopping malls, shopping arcades, Central Market – all under cover – and the High Street shops all combine to give Cardiff a formidable range of retail therapy. It officially places Cardiff as one of the top five shopping cities in Britain. There’s more all-weather activity too… how about exploring National Museum Cardiff? With free entry, it’s a “must-see” in the city.

I’ve been staying at the Hilton Cardiff hotel (www.hilton.co.uk/cardiff) and, wow, what a perfect location. It’s opposite the castle but just a couple of blocks away from the shopping malls and arcades. And just across the road from City Hall and National Museum Cardiff. My room is large, clean and, well, just perfect really. The staff here at the Hilton are so helpful. In fact, the Sales Team are so helpful that they’ve even put together a special shopping package until the end of this month… for just £99 a night for two adults sharing a twin or double room, you get accommodation, breakfast plus an appointment with a personal shopper at Debenhams department store who can help with shopping and tips on selecting that perfect outfit. And that price includes tax. Call the Hilton for more information and bookings on (011 44) 292 064 6300.

>> See my set of Cardiff photos on Flickr

After spending two nights in Mid Wales, straddling the border with England, this has become one of my favorite areas of Britain. It’s certainly easily accessible by car from London, Manchester and Birmingham airports – all with direct routes from the United States.

Snag two nights at Milebrook House hotel. The location is exceptional, surrounded by farmland and its own beautifully manicured gardens. In the restaurant, if the ingredients aren’t from the chef’s kitchen garden, then they’re from local farms.

A world away from my usual New York soundtrack, I awake here to the bleating of sheep and birdsong. The hotel’s location is perfect for exploring the surrounding historic market towns, stately homes and stunning scenery…

Arriving in Mid Wales mid-afternoon, I set the sat-nav to direct me to Presteigne, a pretty town not far from Milebrook. With rows of characterful shops well worth ambling into, the town is a picture postcard. Be sure to visit the Judge’s Lodging. Unlike some stuffy stately houses, here is one which you literally “explore” at your own pace. Just imagine that the judge has nipped out for a moment, about to return. I loved pushing open doors – – a truly authentic recreation of Victorian life without any barriers or signs saying “do not touch.” The best part was descending to the kitchen and servants’ hall, dimly lit by gaslight just as it would have been in the Victorian era. Then seeing the damp dark cells before carefully climbing the stairs to appear in… the dock! Yes you really do walk up from the cells into the center of the courtroom, literally following in the footsteps of criminals. Peer up into the magnificent courtroom, one of the most authentic in the country.

Presteigne has a history almost as turbulent and changeable as the weather this week. Located on the English side of Offa’s Dyke, the town is still in Powys, most definitely in Wales. Besieged by Prince Llywelyn (1262) and pillaged by Owain Glyndwr, it was once the county town.

On the way to Milebrook House, I deviate to check out parts of the Offa’s Dyke footpath – – the long distance walking route which runs the border between England and Wales. Even between rain showers, there are some great photo opportunities across rolling farmland and gentle hills – all painted an enchanting vibrant green.

 The next day, I drove out towards Llandrindod Wells to visit a very special country house. The Hall at Abbey-Cym-Hir is most unusual in a good way: two-hour-long tours are given by family members and absolutely no part of the family home is off-limits; you see every room. The Gothic style architecture and cluttered interiors immediately feel warm, welcoming and lived-in. Take your shoes off at the door and it feels as if you’re visiting relatives while you tour the 52 rooms.

 The gardens are equally impressive, the perfect setting for such a special residence, complete with a beautiful walled garden.

Here’s a tip: be sure to visit The Hall at Abbey-Cym-Hir between November 1st and January 6th to see all 52 rooms decorated for Christmas. It’s got to be one of the most remarkable Christmas experiences in Britain.

For lunch, I headed into Llandrindod Wells, the present county town of Powys. The resort feel today is down to its earlier prominence as a Victorian spa town, featuring stately promenades, the original chalybeate water and a boating lake and park on the edge of town. Spencer’s Brasserie at The Metropole hotel offers a comprehensive menu and a delicious Welsh Llangloffan and Caerfai Cheddar sandwich. The hotel also boasts 120 rooms and a spa, making this another great bet for a Mid Wales vacation base.

 A short drive west took me to the Elan Valley. Set against the backdrop of the Camrian Mountains, the valley houses reservoirs which were constructed in the late 19th century featuring massive dams. I recommend stopping off at the visitor center to pick up a map before driving north up alongside the glistening reservoirs. Moody clouds interspersed sunshine providing dramatic views looking down on the vast expanses of water. This is an area popular with walkers and birdwatchers as well as those of us who prefer to drive the reservoir circuit making use of the many stopping and viewing points along the route.

 Before retiring to my hotel, I stopped by the town of Montgomery. It had been recommended by my old friend Emyr who heads up the Welsh hotel collection ‘Welsh Rarebits’, and I’m glad I went out of my way to visit. Montgomery is a pretty town dotted with historic buildings, a couple of cafes and a local history museum. But the town’s crowning jewel is Montgomery Castle; walk up from the town square for awesome views down over Montgomery and surrounding landscapes. The castle itself is a ruin, yet the imposing stone walls combine with the fast-moving sky above to create a powerful setting as I stand looking out over Mid Wales. I’ve just had an incredible couple of days exploring a part of Wales which I didn’t know very well. I now know it slightly better, but I also know there are many attractions I’ve missed and that I’ll be back again soon.

[Originally posted on http://www.usa.visitwales.com/ on May 26, 2009] Day two of our live blog from the island of Anglesey, and a spectacular day of exploring. Huge thanks to our Wales Facebook fans who gave thoughts on their favorite places on Anglesey…

Tre Ysgawen Hall is truly a majestic setting, and what better place to awaken for breakfast than at this great Victorian mansion hotel. I was set to continue the day reminiscing Victorian-era Anglesey as I headed towards the town of Amlwch.

As I drove through pretty villages, the landscape started to become more colorful as the iron ore hinted hues of red and terracotta on Parys Mountain. Parys Mountain Copper Mines are a “must-see” for visitors to Anglesey… I parked the car amidst the colorful terrain and walked about 10 minutes along the “Industrial Heritage Trail.” The view across a large opencast copper quarry is stunning, firstly for the vivid colors of yellows, reds and purples, but also for the dramatic chasm itself.

Ardent walkers can follow a trail around Parys Mountain to see the old engine house, windmill, mine yards and a view of the more modern mine. But, for me, it was time to head into Amlwch town to explore the historic port. I met up with David Jenkins from the Amlwch Industrial Heritage Trust who explained that the trust has been preserving the port and mountain sites since 1996 and making them more accessible to visitors.

Walking around the old port, it was hard to imagine 1,500 people working there split between ship-building, copper mining, and loading the iron, copper and zinc ores onto ships. In fact, in the late 18th century, Amlwch was Wales’ second largest town and a major exporter of those metals worldwide. While now it is a ghost town in comparison, the port is an incredible visitor experience and insight into the industrial heritage of Wales. Be sure to visit the Sail Loft visitor center and museum where knowledgeable staff from the trust are often on hand, and a tea room provides welcome refreshment. Over a coffee, David told me how the Amlwch Industrial Heritage Trust is planning to preserve and open the windmill to visitors; this isn’t a regular windmill used to grind wheat to flour, as it was constructed to pump water. He also explained how there are still many miles of mines dug out beneath the mountain-scape and opencast cavern.

After being wowed by the lunar landscapes around “copper kingdom,” I drove along the coast stopping by Bull Bay and the charming harbor town of Cemaes. Cemaes is well worth stopping by to wander along the harbor and pretty main street where there are a couple of quaint pubs and a yummy looking fish and chip shop!

I was in a hurry, though, to drive down to Trearddur Bay and to walk out to the South Stack Lighthouse. The location is amazing. The drive along Trearddur Bay was equally stunning, and the coast line gradually changed from hidden sandy beaches to dramatic cliffs and rock formations. My favorite view of the lighthouse was from South Stack Nature Reserve where the heather-covered cliff edge drops down to the glistening sea and there in the distance is the lighthouse itself perched on an island jutting out from the rocks. I had a chat with an expert from the Royal Society for the Protection of Birds who was working at their Ellin’s Tower visitor center overlooking the lighthouse. He explained that they make note of what birds and sea life are seen each day… so far: seals, porpoises and dolphins swimming off the coast; and Puffins, a Buzzard, Guillemots and a Kittiwake have been spotted.

I am now settled in at my hotel for my last night on Anglesey before flying to Cardiff early tomorrow morning. I’ve fallen in love with the Trearddur Bay Hotel (www.trearddurbayhotel.co.uk). Perhaps it’s the setting, overlooking the bay, and the fresh ocean breeze. Or that my room has a balcony also overlooking the bay. The hotel has the feel of a fresh, ocean-front property which welcomes families. I took a nosey around with hotel manager, Louise, just a minute ago and there are even rooms already set up with additional bunk or twin beds for children. The beach is just steps away from the hotel entrance. But here’s the really cool thing… Louise said they even have drying space at the hotel for wet wet suits and outdoor gear. So the fact that I can see people out on the bay jet skiing and rib-boating makes this a great destination if you want to get out on the ocean. Hotel staff are also well connected with local adventure companies and can pre-book any activities such as coasteering, sea-kayaking and surfing. I love that there’s an unstuffy feel throughout the hotel, including a contemporary looking brasserie restaurant in the adjoining Inn at the Bay. Plus there’s wi-fi Internet connectivity everywhere – great if you’re writing a blog!

So there, then, is my two-part “36 Hours in Anglesey” trip. I’m flying from Anglesey Airport to Cardiff tomorrow which is a really convenient twice-daily route for folks wanting to combine the beauty of Anglesey with cosmopolitan, urban Cardiff which I just love every time I get back to visit. There are so many other places to visit on Anglesey that I couldn’t get to see this time. I’d already visited Plas Newydd, an elegant 18th century house and gardens, on a previous visit. And I’m sad that I ran out of time and didn’t get to visit Penmon Priory, the art museum – Oriel Ynys Mon, Llanddwyn Island, the Lligwy Burial Chamber, Newborough Forest or Holyhead Maritime Museum. I also really want to take a boat trip out to Puffin Island one day. The best advice I can give: stay several days and you’ll still run out of time!

>> See my set of Anglesey photos on Flickr